Ice Climbing – First Steps and Safety Tips

Useful advice for beginners and newcomers to ice climbing.

Winter is the season that offers the widest range of fun for outdoor enthusiasts.
My first experience on ice was during high school when I attended the G. Gervasutti School of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) in Turin. Since then, I’ve always preferred rock climbing—more accessible, safer, and "warmer."

Over the past three seasons, however, I’ve rediscovered ice climbing, realizing just how much has changed. Above all, gear evolution has made climbing on ephemeral ice easier and more accessible than ever. We’re light-years ahead of the days when "piolet traction" was considered alien territory.

That said, ice climbing is far from being a risk-free activity. Ironically, technical advances have increased the risks—it's now easier and faster to end up in dangerous situations. Greater participation also means higher traffic and elevated hazards.

Let’s not forget that ice climbing remains one of the most extreme expressions of modern mountaineering. It involves climbing fragile structures, relying on temporary protections anchored to the ice, all in an alpine environment where objective dangers are high and hard to quantify. These risks must never be underestimated.

However, every climber and mountain lover understands the mix of emotions that drives us to climb. Ice climbing is undoubtedly a concentrate of powerful emotions.

This guide aims to help those interested in ice climbing approach it responsibly and knowledgeably. Attempting ice climbing without proper preparation is a serious mistake that must be avoided.

Start with a Course

The CAI (Italian Alpine Club) is an affordable option that also helps connect you with like-minded enthusiasts. This was my choice back in the day. Alternatively, hiring a mountain guide is a larger investment but provides personalized teaching.

Mountain guides, also known as "Masters of Mountaineering," often organize short courses on ice climbing, usually with limited participant numbers. For course information, Verticalife is a great starting point.

Regardless of your choice, learning about safety is fundamental. This includes rope techniques, self-rescue, and understanding the objective dangers of mountain environments. Safety will always be a major focus of any course you take.

Avalanche Risks and Ice Conditions

Ice climbing routes follow frozen flows that naturally collect anything falling from above. The number one threat to climbers is avalanches. Knowing the terrain and staying informed about snow conditions is essential.

The AINEVA website (www.aineva.it) provides up-to-date avalanche bulletins that you should know how to read and interpret. Avalanche risk means carrying an avalanche beacon, probe, and shovel—and knowing how to use them.

It’s also important to understand the ice you’re climbing. While you don’t need to become a glaciologist, having some basic knowledge helps. I recommend the Italian translation of Jerome Blanc-Gras and Manu Ibarra’s excellent book Blue Ice (L'arte del ghiaccio).

Planning your climb involves thorough research about the route, its conditions, and its history. A great resource is the Icefall-Data website and its Facebook page, which provides reports and data on icefalls, including structural events.

Tools for Planning and Safety

Useful databases for planning include IceFall, Gulliver, and CampToCamp, though no database can replace your own ability to assess conditions on-site. Social media also offers valuable updates; keep an eye on Facebook pages like Cuori di Ghiaccio, Effimeri Barbagli, Ice, Mixed, Dry, and OnIce.it, where guides and athletes often share insights.

Research is a critical phase of ice climbing. My final safety tip: approach every icefall with humility. In ice climbing, as in all mountaineering, knowing your limits—and those of your partner—is crucial.